Blog

This is the first chance I've had to write something since Thursday, and I am now in Phoenix following my flight home today.  Friday I was invited to one of the local homes for lunch with several of the ladies in the village.  The owner and gourmet chef was a retired man, Jean-Charles, who is, aside from a marvelous cook, a very nice and entertaining man.  I had ample opportunities to practice my French, as there was only one other English speaker in the group.  The rest of Friday was spent saying good-bye to my many new friends, and driving around looking at homes. 

Saturday started wonderfully.  I had decided to spend the day on the back roads driving to Chartres to visit the cathedral, then to take the autoroute to the airport and the Hilton Hotel.  The day started fairly well, with a lovely drive to a small village near Loche, called Verneuil sure Indre where I met with a wonderful watercolor artist Nathalie Desperches-Boukhatem, and purchased one of her books.  She invited me to come paint with her next year, which of course I will do.  Then I continued on, stopping at Amboise for a short stroll through the city.  I made it to Chartres and had a very inspiring visit in the Cathedral, then drove toward Paris.  My first clue that the day would not be following my script was the stop and go traffic for about an hour, on the autoroute.  Suddenly I found myself on a detour as the A10, a major autoroute, was closed for construction.  Not having a GPS or a detailed map (as though I would have been able to even look at a map), I ended up in the center of Paris.  Not a good place to be when one is lost.  I kept rolling the window down and shouting "Charles de Gaulle", and people would point.  I eventually ended up on the interior peripherique, rather than the exterior, but finally saw a sign for the airport.  Instead of arriving at the hotel at 6 as planned, I arrived exhausted at 8.  Once I returned the rental car, I definitely was ready for a glass of wine or two.  So, you ask, what did I learn from this anxiety producing, exhausting day?  Next year, I'll have a GPS with European maps.  Or, I could take the TGV to Tours and rent a car there.

All I can say about this trip was that it was a wonderful experience.  At the start there was some anxiety as I had never traveled alone, other than some flights, but I enjoyed the entire trip.  All the people I met in the village of Barrou were friendly and tolerated my beginner French.  As an example of the people in the village, I accidentally left my camera in the boulangerie, and another customer came looking for me to tell me.  When I returned to the boulangerie, the owner had put the camera away for safe-keeping.  As I was the only stranger in town at the moment, they knew it was mine.  I ended up selling eight of my paintings, and left the rest there at the request of a few of the people.  Who knows, maybe the others will sell over the next few months.  I'm already looking forward to next year.

Appetizers fit for a king or queen	The Chateau near Loches	The Cathedral at Chartres

Today was another gray day, but I thought I could get a painting in before it started raining.  I had a commission to do another of the wonderful old farmhouses in the area, so I set up in the yard, and started drawing.  I lucked out and managed to get most of the painting finished before the rain started.  As it was a perfect stopping point for lunch, I packed up and went to the restaurant for another of their delicious, but gigantic lunches.  Today was chicken with French fries.  I understand that it was actually the Belgians who started French fries, but the name has stuck.  Anyhow, the meal was delicious as usual.  After my two hour lunch, I went back to the house and finished the painting from inside the barn.  I was lucky in that the paint had completely dried before the drops hit.  Otherwise, it would have been quite a textured painting, but not necessarily where I wanted the texture.  After matting the picture and delivering it, it was time to go to a friend's house for appertifs.  Another delightful evening was ahead of me.  This time, we spent the evening speaking French, because three of the guests spoke little or no English.  I occasionally had to ask for a translation, but overall was able to hold my own.  The question which I have had presented to me a number of times is whether I'm returning.  I have already decided that the answer is yes.  Now that I'm getting to know so many of the local inhabitants, how could I not?

La Ricendeliere	For all the cat lovers out there

What a difference over last year.  The weather was beautiful every day but one last year.  Of course I packed accordingly.  This year, it has mostly been cloudy with showers.  A few of the days were solid rain, and a few were beautiful.  Every day, I check the forecast and it changes from day to day.  It is absolutely beautiful here, with so many different shades of green.  The area I'm in is agricultural, and the fields of barley, wheat, and corn are spectacular.  There are a few dairy herds also, plus the sunflower fields.  I will miss seeing them bloom as the plants are only about two feet high right now.  It's too bad, as they were so beautiful and cheery last year.  Well, there is always next year.  This afternoon, after the showers stopped, I painted this beautiful farm house, just outside Barrou.  The owners have been restoring it, and still have the section on the right of the picture left to do.  The other picture was taken by one of my local friends in the restaurant.  As you can tell, I'm having a great time.  I've also attached a picture of one of the many cats in the town.  The French love their pets, and most of the dogs and cats are very well-fed.  I've had difficulty taking pictures of the cats, as they run away when they see strangers, but this cat was different.

Les Nocereaux	In the restaurant, sharing a laugh	un chat blanc

The weather continues to be up and down.  Friday, after a delightful day spent socializing, but not painting, I went to the restaurant where many of the local men were congregating for the European Soccer matches.  France was playing the Ukraine, and everyone was really getting into the spirit.  The first picture is of my English friend and myself, after we had had our faces painted in the colors for France.  The evening was quite fun, and fortunately France won the match.  The picture shows the difference in tolerating the temperatures here, between my friends from England with similar weather, and myself.  Coming from the heat of Arizona, I have been chilled quite a bit on this trip.  Next year, I'll bring warmer clothing.  Saturday was raining rather hard, so the day was spent sight-seeing and visiting the village of Le Grand Pressigny, and the other house owned by my Scottish hosts.  Following that was a birthday party for a local friend with a delicious cake from Chocquet's in La Roche Posay.  This morning we hanged the show of my work at the local restaurant.  It has been a success so far, with many people coming to see it.  The show will stay up until Friday afternoon, when I will need to pack for my return home.  I have sold a few paintings, and have several commissions to paint homes here, which has been a rather pleasant result of the show.  Of course, all discussions are held over a glass of wine.  This afternoon, another beautiful, sunny one, was spent painting the restaurant.

Viva La France!!	gateau chocolat de Choquet It tasted as good as it looked.	Some of my paintings hanging in the restaurant.

What an absolutely beautiful day we had.  It was sunny all day and in the low 70's.  One couldn't ask for better weather.  I actually painted two pictures today and met several people, getting an opportunity to practice my French.  Now I'm going to have to really get to work as I received two commissions to paint homes.  Tomorrow is the meeting to discuss my show or Esposition in the restaurant.  The current plan is to hang the pictures Sunday morning, and leave them up until Thursday evening or Friday morning.  Here are the pictures I painted today.  The first is looking down the street toward the church, and the second is the back of the farmhouse which was painted last week.  The view from the road to Le Grand-Pressigny is fantastic in the afternoon.

looking down la rue de la mairie	Le Ferme Ancienne

The weather was much better today with a nice sunny morning and only a few light showers this afternoon.  After finishing my painting, started yesterday in the rain, my friends and I went to the nearby village of Mairé, where we had drinks with a delightful Belgian whom we had met Saturday at the restaurant here in Barrou.  Following the drinks, we walked into the village and had lunch at the restaurant in Mairé.  What a lunch!!  For only ten euros or twelve dollars, we had two courses of appetizers, followed by the main course, a cheese assortment, and dessert and coffee.  Of course, the meal was accompanied by the usual bread and wine.  The appetizers were a paté, shrimp, and a salmon slice with sauce, acutally enough for a meal in itself.  Then came the main dish, a veal in sauce with rice.  The cheeses were the usual assortment of delicious cheeses which are difficult to find in the US.  French pastries being what they are, the dessert was absolutely delicious.  I've included pictures of the restaurant and a painting I did of the house in which I am staying.  Enjoy!

Restaurant front, Mairé	Inside the restaurant	Looking at front door of house from street

Today was cold and raining until about 5:30.  Some visiting friends and I went to Loché sur Indre, approximately 50 km from here.  His mother was born in this small village, and the ancestral chateau is still there, although no longer in the family.  It was very interesting to visit the church and to see two stained glass windows dedicated to his ancestors, both of whom were in the military.  When we arrived back in Barrou, the rain stopped and the sun came out for a few hours, warming this Arizona body.  My friends, being from England were used to this type of weather, so were very comfortable.

Yesterday, I painted a house on the Place de Tilleuls (a type of tree), in the morning.  After lunch it started raining again, so stopped painting for the day.  Last evening, the local restaurant had a special event, "Le CousCous", which required reservations.  It was a lot of fun with quite a few people attending from the village.  The meal was a plate of couscous, with vegetables, and several different cuts of meat, plus a sauce.  Of course it was accompanied by wine.  All in all, the food was good, and the company even better.  However, I am not used to drinking that much wine, so I was quite happy that all I had to do was cross the street to get to my house.  Here is the picture I painted yesterday.

The day started with the idea of painting the market in La Roche Posay.  While it was not raining, it was cold and very windy, and after walking around with my backpack of art supplies, I decided that a studio painting would do just as well.  My Arizona blood was not doing well in the colder than normal French weather.  So, not wanting to waste a trip, I perused the market and bought some food for myself.  After returning home, the weather warmed up a bit, so I ventured out and painted the house in which I am staying.  I must say that I am much more motivated to paint when the weather is warmer, or at least not as windy.

one of the vegetable vendors at the market	view of #33 Grand Rue from courtyard

What a beautiful day!  It was cool this morning, but turned warm by mid afternoon.  I didn't bring enough clothes for cool weather, so am wearing the same thing every day.  Both pictures painted today were of houses here in Barrou.  There are so many picturesque buildings, that it is difficult deciding which to paint.  After a delightful day painting and a delicious meal cooked at home, I went for a walk up the hill past the cemetary.  These pictures are of Barrou from the hilltop.  All the fields of wheat and barley remind me of my years living in Oregon.  The walk was very peaceful and restorative.

Barrou from hill above town.  The tall building in the center is the church.	outskirts of Barrou

Today, the weather finally cooperated, and the sun even came out for a short time.  I was able to paint two pictures today, and still have time to enjoy some tea and later wine with some local friends.  The rain, when it did come was light, and later in the day.  After having lunch at the local restaurant yesterday, I decided to eat in today.  The meal was delicious but the amount of food was more than I am used to eating.  Also, I was the only female other than the proprietor.  It seems that the restaurant is a favorite of all the workers in the area.  For twelve euros or approximately $15, I had a large assortment of appetizers, the main course which was roast veal, pomme frites or french fries and vegetables, and a choice of a piece of lemon pie (delicious) or ice cream, and coffee.  Also included was a large basket of bread, and wine.  Needless to say, I didn't eat dinner last night.

The church in Barrou	hard at work painting

The weather was still rather unpleasant today, so I only had the opportunity to paint one picture.  After freezing, it seemed like a good idea to visit a museum, so off I went to the René Descartes museum.  It is located only 14 km from Barrou, and is open daily from 2-8.  At the time of René's birth the village was named la Haye en Touraine, but sometime after he became famous for his philosophy, the name was changed to Descartes.  As the weather forecast is rather bleak for the rest of the week, it is rather iffy for doing plein air paintings.  I may be reduced to doing studio-type paintings in the house.  We'll see.  A demain.

plaque on wall of house	René hard at work, thinking

My plans to paint at the open market in Descartes were put on hold by Mother Nature.  A 70% chance of thunderstorms was in the forecast, and the sky was rather ominous with occasional sprinkles.  So, after visiting the market and purchasing some food, I decided to paint from the driveway of the house I'm renting.  The turned out to be a good decision as it did sprinkle a few times, forcing me to take my things inside for awhile.  Fortunately, there was a very picturesque building almost across the street.

On the outskirts of Descartes I saw a newly installed monument referring to World War II.  Last year I had seen the bridge at Descartes spanning the Creuse River.  It has played a key role in many wars over the centuries, and was destroyed by the resistance in WWII, possibly saving the town from massacre by the Germans.  I have now learned that the line of demarcation between Occupied France and Free France between 1940 and 1942 was in Descartes.  

House I am renting in Barrou	painting of house on Rue de la Mairie